The
Los Alcornocales (170,000 hectares) and Sierra de Grazalema
(50,000 hectares) Nature Parks converge in the municipality
of Cortes de la Frontera, which contains a large part of
their extraordinary environmental treasure and affords the
visitor a view of scenic surroundings that are absolutely
awe-inspiring.
The
large forests of cork oaks that cover much of this territory
continue into the province of Cádiz, but before crossing
the border of Málaga they form a number of sites
that can, without gratuitous hyperbole, be characterised
as paradisiacal.
La Sauceda and the Las Buitreras gorge, adjoining the El
Colmenar neighbourhood, are only two examples of the bounty
that nature has bestowed upon this municipality. The first
site is fully equipped for camping and taking however much
time one wishes to enjoy the surroundings, while the latter-Las
Buitreras-is more difficult of access but compensates for
this with an astonishing spectacle: the channel of the River
Guadiaro confined between walls more than 100 metres high.
It
seems that the origins of Cortes de la Frontera date back
to the twelfth and eleventh centuries B. C., when the Phoenicians
arrived in this area where the Tartessians were already
established. Centuries later the Greeks made their appearance,
which can be described as fleeting, as it generally was
on the coasts of Andalusia. After the Greeks came the Romans,
from whose era sufficient evidence remains: the traces of
the town of Saepona 28 kilometres from the present village
and the ruins of Cortes el Viejo (Old Cortes), only two
kilometres from the village in a setting that overlooks
a long stretch of the River Guadiaro.
The Muslims confronted the Visigoths on Cortesano soil in
the year 711 in a place that is still recognizable today,
according to a number of researchers. At the death of Almanzor
in 1002, Cortes belonged alternately to the kingdoms of
Seville and Granada and even to the kingdoms of Ronda and
Algeciras. Fernando III the Saint conquered the village
in 1248 but it later again passed into the hands of the
Muslims until the Marquise of Cádiz, Rodrigo Ponce
de León, took it in the name of the Catholic Monarchs
in 1485. This kind of alternation between one kingdom and
another was not unusual with villages that had “de la Frontera”
(“of the Frontier”) as part of their names.
The
modern location of the village is more recent, having its
origin in the seventeenth century. It was in that period
that cork exploitation, one of the locality’s main sources
of wealth, began to develop. It continues to be one of the
pillars of the economy of Cortes de la Frontera. Due to
the era in which the village was founded its urban structure
is noticeably different from that of many mountain localities
that have a Moorish heritage. The municipality is also unusual
in having three centres of population, which it is not unique
in the province of Málaga but is nevertheless not
common. They are: the main population centre, which is Cortes
de la Frontera itself, El Colmenar and La Cañada
or Estación de Cortes.
Outstandings
Visits:
Contrary to the case of other villages whose populations
do not exceed 10,000, in which the parish church stands
as the most representative local monument, in the case of
Cortes the Casa Consistorial or Town Hall is the most important
structure. Carlos III ordered its construction in 1784.
The building displays a neoclassic façade that is
notable for ten arcades distributed over two stories that
are crowned by a large pediment, in the centre of which
is the clock and the royal coat of arms. The humble construction
materials-cut sandstone-do not detract in the slightest
from the building’s architectural elegance.
The Nuestra Señora del Rosario church in the centre
of the village dates from the late eighteenth century and
is divided into three naves separated by semicircular arches.
The central nave has a barrel vault, and a dome with a lantern
covers the transept. Outside are two stone façades
with lintels and the bell tower, which is located next to
the front of the church.
The Casa de los Valdenebros (Los Valdenebros house), also
known as the Casa de las Tetitas (Las Tetitas house), has
a beautiful stone façade dated 1763 which displays
the coat of arms of its former owner, a soldier who received
a noble title. The mansion still has a subterranean passage
that connects with the old Valdenebros chapel, which has
a façade somewhere between baroque and Mudéjar
that was built in 1760.
The Plaza de Toros (Bullring) was inaugurated in 1894 and
restored in 1921. It is, with its ring of almost 30 metres
across, the largest bullring in the Highlands except for
that of Ronda, of course. The question of why a small village
has such a large bullring is explained by the intensive
livestock industry in Cortes.
The
Casa de Piedra dates from the sixth and seventh centuries.
As its name (Stone House) indicates, it was built by the
primitive method of excavating into a huge rock, making
the manual labour performed on it truly remarkable. On the
other hand the thirteenth century Torre del Paso (El Paso
tower) was erected to watch over the Gaucín-Ubrique
road through the El Espino pass. It is a simple watchtower
of functional construction.
How to Get There:
Starting from the AP-7 (N-340) expressway on the Costa del
Sol, take the A-377 from Manilva to Gaucín, and there
continue by way of the A-369. About seven kilometres farther
along turn onto the A-373, which leads to Cortes. If you
leave from the city of Ronda, you must go south on the A-369,
and after passing Algatocín take the A-373.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 173.6 square kilometres
Population: about 3,500
What the natives are called: Cortesanos
Monuments: the Casa Consistorial (Town Hall), Nuestra Señora
del Rosario church, Casa de los Valdenebros (Los Valdenebros
house), Plaza de Toros (Bullring) and the Casa de Piedra
(Stone House).
Geographical Location: in the Ronda highlands in the westernmost
part of the province of Málaga, bordering on the
province of Cádiz. The village is 600 metres above
sea level. It is 40 kilometres from Ronda, 20 from Benaoján
and 159 from the provincial capital. The average rainfall
is plentiful (1,160 litres per square metre) and the average
temperature is slightly more than 16º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Plaza Carlos III, 1 (29380).
Telephone: 952 154 000; Fax: 952 154 342