DEEP
IN THE HEART OF THE AXARQUÍA REGION, ON THE BORDER
OF THE MONTES DE MÁLAGA, STANDS EL BORGE, A SMALL
TOWN OVERLOOKING RAISIN AND VINE COUNTRY. THE SO-CALLED
CAPITAL OF THE RAISIN IS A TRANQUIL SPOT OF WHITEWASHED
HOUSE FRONTS. COLOURFUL BALCONIES AND WINDING ALLEYWAYS,
LEGACY OF ITS REBELLIOUS MOORISH PAST.
Standing 237 metres above sea level, at the foot of the
Cerro Cútar (595 m.), alongside the river of the
same name, El Borge rises above precipitous hillsides covered
with vineyeards and olive groves. On the gentler contours
of the lower slopes are cornfields, with orchards of citrus
and other fruits, and vegetable plots occupying the base
of the valley.
Quite
when or how El Borge was founded is a mystery, as the only
data available are based purely on the form of the settlement.
In any case, the history of the village is similar to that
almost all those of the Axarquía region. What is
a matter of record is that is was a rebel flashpoint during
the great Moorish uprising, to the extent that the Governor
of Vélez had to send a considerable detachment to
quell ist streets. One of the most remarkable local characters
was the bandit known as 'Cross-eye of el Borge', who in
1880 ran circles around the Civil Guard of the district.
The force suffered more casualties at his hands than those
of any other bandit, although popular legend portrays him
as an almost romantic outlaw. The town's Bandit Museum is
dedicated to him, and also houses a collection of paintings
and illustrations of the bandit life, along with other historical
features.
A walk in white
Perhaps El Borge's greatest attraction is simply to let
your feet wander down its steep, whitewashed streets, festooned
always with blooming geraniums.
One must-see is the district fo El Rinconcillo, where you
will find various streets connected by flights of steps.
The Church of the Rosary is the town's most significant
historical building, constructed in 1505 on the foundations
of the former mosque. Architectually it is one of the most
remarkable churches in the region, adopting an original
stance somewhere between the Gothic and Renaissance styles.
The naves, meanwhile, are supported by Mudejar-style wooden
bracing, while the niches reveal Baroque coffering. In the
square outside, to one side of the church, can be seen an
elaborate fountain decorated with painted tiles representing
Our Lady of Lourdes. Another notable fountain, or Arab origin
and recently restored, is known as the Horn Fountain.
The Ornithological and Botanical Park of La Alcua is another
fine place in which to lose oneself, its magnificent gardens
hone to many exotic plants, fountains and species of bitd.
Another treat offered by a visit to El Borge is its food
and drik. The simple but varied local menu features such
delights as gazpacho accompanied with broad beans and raisins,
ajoblanco, a cold almond and garlic soup, and the traditional
hornazo pie, prepared for the feast of Saint Mark. Special
mention should also be made of the raisins, either as they
are or in brandy, and, of course, the muscatel wine.
The introduction throughout the Axarquía region of
many subtropical and greenhouse crops (avocados, custard
apples, mangoes, papaya, etc.) has greatly enriched the
flavours available to its culinary traditions.