IN
THE HEART OF THE GENAL VALLEY, IN THE RONDA MOUNTAINS, GENALGUACIL
WELCOME THE VISITOR TO UNIQUE SURROUNDINGS WHERE THE TRADITIONS
OF THE WHITE VILLAGES ARE FUSED WITH THE MOST CONTEMPORARY
OF THE ART WORLD AND THE MOST PECULIAR OF THE NATURAL WORLD.
Genalguacil is not just another village.
It's true that its lattice-work maze of steeply-sloping
streets and alleys with snow-white frontages, testimony
to its Moorish origin, and its position right in the valley,
like a balcony giving onto the natural world, are not unique.
This doesn't distinguish it from any of the other villages
in the area. Its little squares and balconies overflow with
flowers and its inhabitants lead peaceful, silent lives
that are historically and economically dependent on the
extraction of cork. But neither is this heritage exclusive
to Genalguacil.

What makes it different, original, is that this little mountain
village, which still maintains the traditional uses and
customs of yesteryear, turned several years ago into an
outdoor museum, home to an array of sculptures belonging
to artists of the five continents. The figures in stone,
iron, wood and clay surprises the visitor in the most unlikely
of places. The most innovative and vanguardiste art cohabits
here with the potted geraniums, reed chairs and grass hats,
the most typically Andaluz. But we'd better start at the
beginning.
Origins:
Within its local boundaries, in the so-called Reales Chicos,
handmills have been found that were made by the Phoenician
and Hellenic cultures. There were once rich gold and silver
mines here, today exhausted. These handmills were used to
crush precious metals so that they could subsequently be
purified.
Its name comes from the Arabic Genna- Alwacir meaning "Gardens
of the Vizier". After the arrival of the Reyes Católicos
(Catholic kings), the Moslem population remaided in the
village a bloody rebellion in the mid 16th century ended
this peaceful coexistence. This uprising is a milestone
in Genalguacil's history, worthy of mention, not only for
the repercussions it had, bur also for the atrocities committed.
According to chroniclers, five hundred soldiers were sent
at that time to clear the Sierra Bermeja (mountains) of
people. Some of them sacked villages and took slaves, incurring
the wrath of the Moors who came down from the mountains
to defend their women and children.
The Arab rebels laid siege to the ancient church of San
Pedro Mártir de Verona where the leader of the militia,
Pedro Bermúdez, had left some of his men inside to
look after the Moorish women, children and old people. The
Moors go out those who had been imprisoned within and set
fire to it with the soldiers inside, giving them no chance
of rescue. After the expulsion of the Moslems, Genalcuacil
was repopulated with Christians from nearby areas. As late
as 1856, the village was made part of the Duque de Arcos's
estate, until a law took away this medieval privilege.
Sculptural
streets:
Bring together a heterogeneous group of artists and give
an evocative climate, surround them with nature, though
inserting them into a small, close-knit community. Give
them materials; enable them to exchange ideas and opinions
and let creativity and coexistence do the rest.
And
afterwards, when the works have taken shape and form, leave
them there, so that they end up forming part of that place,
of its streets, its squares, its countryside, its memories
and those that live there. Since the idea was firts realised
in 1994, many artists have used the magic formula of Genalcuacil.
This white village is already a museum with its own array
of art works and is an example of how art, nature and the
day to day life of a small community can be linked.
In the heart
of nature:
Set in the midle of the Genal Valley, a stone's throw from
the sea and one of the highest mountains in the Ronda mountains,
the woods of Genalguacil are of enormous value and beauty,
populated by chestnuts, corks and pines, including the Blue
Spanish Fir, a botanic relic that is found nowhere else
in the world.
In its immediate vicinity is a wide network of paths and
tracks that lead through totally unspoilt countryside below
high mountain scenary. These paths are ideal for excursions
on foot or bike which can be complemented, in summer, with
a dip in the crystal-clear and clean water of the rivers
Almachar and Genal.
Useful informationAccess:
From the Costa del Sol, starting from Estepona, you come
across the road that leads here and which passes through
Peñas Blancas and Jubrique on the way.
The distance is some 40 kms.