IN
THE FOOTHILLS OF THE SERRANIA DE RONDA MOUNTAINS, BURIED
DEEP INSIDE THE SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES NATURAL PARK, ISTAN
STANDS OUT. THIS BEAUTIFUL MOORISH TOWN RAISES ITS EYES
TO THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA AND ZEALOUSLY GUARDS THE DELIGHTFUL
ENCHANTMENT OF ANDALUSIA'S WHITE VILLAGES.
A
walking around Istán takes one back to Al-andalus.
Its labyrinthine urban layout tangled up with narrow, steep
alleys and flanked by unpolluted whitewashed houeses brings
with it the Arabic flavour of other times.
Some say Istán was not born in itself but in its
surroundings, which were already dwelled at the time of
the Cordovan Caliphate, when revolutionary Omar Ben Hafsun
rebelled against the Umayyad in 896. Later on, halfway through
the 15th century, Istán was officially founded as
a village in its current emplacement.
Istán, meaning "higher", is the product
of a flight, a battle, a legend.
The subsequent expulsion of the Moorish put an end to an
era and it came as a terrible blow for one of the richest
places in the region (thanks to silk and raisin export)
Istán was finally repopulated with families from
Murcia. These introduced the "panocho" dialect,
which has given name to Istán's inhabitants ever
since.
Religious legacy
Istán's most valuable building is the Church of San
Miguel, erected in the 16th century on the orders of the
Archbishop of Seville, Diego de Deza. This parish church
dedicated to the town's patron saint, consists of a single
rectangular nave with a wooden framework. On the outside,
its facade stands out, as well as the odd angular double-bodied
steeple - where the church bells are.
Other singular buildings are the cave which houses the "Youth
House", the public washing area and the Arab Tower,
which was once part of the old fortress and is now located
on the highest point of the village.
A
peculiar feature of Istán is the preservation of
its Via Crucis (Way of the Cross). The path is marked with
small and simple wooden crosses, embedded in the cavities
of the houses' different facades.
Water is an essential part of Istán's life and fountains
are one of its freshest expressions. These drinking water
spouts rise strategically throughout the entire region and
are characterised by their blue and white tiles, which illustrate
representative scenes. Moorish irrigation channels are also
one of the essential and liquid elements of Istán.
They go through the town and branch out to reach gardens
and plots. A water flow murmur emanating from the channels
accompanies the visitor along the streets, making his walk
more enjoyable and pleasant.
Natural heritage
If there is something which ennobles Istán is the
great natural environment by which it is surrounded. One
of its symbols is the so-called "Holy Chestnut Tree",
a gigantic 44-foot perimeter tree of more than 1000 years
of age which has been declared "Natural Monument"
by the government of Andalusia. Unfortunately, it is no
longer accessible.
Thanks to the lookout points (miradores) of the region,
one can admire the majesty of the environment: the Mirador
del Aufaifo, with its comforting views on Rio Molinos; the
Mirador de las Herrizas, located on the top of the hill
above Rio Verde's reservoir; the Mirador del Tajo Banderas
-also close to the reservoir-, which points to the mountain
ranges guarding and protecting the town of Istán,
or the Mirador de El Peñón, whose location
draws to the crossroads of Río Molinos and Río
Verde.
From the Saint Michael's Chapel -a church dug out of a cave
and situated just over one mile away from the urban area-
one can also obtain an excellent outlook of the Strait of
Gibraltar and the Sierra de las Nieves Mountains: a unique
sight on bright days. The fast-flowing source of the Rio
Verde river, the cork oaks in Bornoque Mountain, the Las
Cañas stream, the Concha peak and, of course, the
Sierra de las Nieves Mountain. Nature rises here as insurgently
as the Moorish did more than 500 years ago. Istán,
located within this environment, looks over from the heights
on this incredible scenery.
Useful information
How to get there:
From Marbella, there is a diversion route to Istán.