The
municipality of Júzcar is a long and narrow strip
of territory that adjoins the municipality of Ronda to the
north, and in the south descends to Estepona and Benahavís.
Its elongated shape allows for an enormous variety of scenery
formed by very high peaks (Benamahoma, El Castillejo, Jardón
and Jarastepar, the last of these being the highest in the
area at 1,425 metres), areas with quintessentially Mediterranean
vegetation, and last of all, dense and unusually lush pine
forests.
Although
the historical origin of this village is very uncertain
it is clear it was founded before the time of the Arabs,
and some link its origin to the mining activity of the Roman
era. Be that as it may, the locality fell into the hands
of the Christian troops in 1485. From that date, forward
the Moors were subjected to very strict rules and, as is
well known, ultimately rebelled in 1570, resulting in their
expulsion in 1609.
A very unusual personality, “El Tajarillo” entered the scene
in that era. A sort of forerunner of the nineteenth century
bandit, he refused to be driven out. He fled to the highlands
and perpetrated incessant acts of banditry as long as he
could. All that remains of him is his legend and a place
called Paso de Tarajillo (Tarajillo’s Pass), near a hut
where it is said he died in an accident.
Due
to its location in the Upper Genal area and its difficult
access from the exterior it doesn’t seem very logical that
Júzcar would have been industrialised before many
other Spanish cities, but such was the case. In 1726, construction
began on the first sheet tin factory in Spain, which began
operations in 1731 with no fewer than 200 workers on the
payroll. The factory was inaugurated with the pompous name
of “La nunca vista en España Real Fábrica
de Hojalata y sus adherentes, reinando los siempre invictos
monarcas y Católicos Reyes don Felipe V y doña
Isabel de Farnesio” (The Never-Before-Seen in Spain Royal
Factory For the Manufacture of Tin Sheeting and its By-Products,
in the Reign of the Unvanquished Catholic Monarchs Don Felipe
V and Doña Isabel de Farnesio.)
It is documented that since, at that time, the process for
manufacturing tin sheeting was not known in Spain some 30
specialists from Germany, under the direction of the Swiss
engineers Pedro Mentón and Emérito Dupasquier,
came to the village. It is said-and this should be considered
anecdotal- that these engineers had to be smuggled out of
their own country in barrels since in order to prevent competition
they were prohibited from going abroad. Apparently, the
factory ceased operations during the War of Independence,
and the General Archives of Simancas preserves part of the
first piece of tin sheeting produced.
The
fact that in 1752 there were eight mill units in operation-and
continued operating until 1841-along with two tanneries
attests to the prosperity of Júzcar in the eighteenth
century. It is therefore not surprising that in this area
there are the ruins of six other villages, of whose abandonment
there are no reliable records. It is known, however, that
Faraján was administratively subordinate to Júzcar
until 1873.
Outstandings Visits:
Júzcar’s urban plan follows the usual pattern of
the highland villages except that here the slopes are so
diabolically steep that the traditional architecture, which
is remarkable for its irregular chimneys and roofs, has
had to avail itself of a thousand and one artifices in its
efforts to tame such extraordinary terrain, conferring an
appearance that goes beyond the merely picturesque.
The village’s most notable building is the Santa Catalina
church. It was built in the sixteenth century but later
modified. It has a single nave and a flat roof that shows
part of an ancient Mudéjar roof frame. The tower,
called the “Torrichela”, seems to have been one of the most
original monuments in the Genal valley, but it was completely
destroyed by an earthquake in 1650.
Only
some ruins remain of the once famous tin factory, including
a sober façade with pilasters and cornices that reflects
the era of its construction (eighteenth century). In the
rear, there is an arch that must have been the entrance
to a small chapel. The factory’s present external appearance
is more that of a convent structure than an operative factory
and its overgrown interior imparts an air of decadent nineteenth
century romanticism.
How
to Get There:
Whether you leave from the Costa del Sol or from Ronda you
must take the A-376 road. In the former case, get onto this
road from the AP-7 or N-340 expressway at San Pedro de Alcántara.
About ten kilometres before getting to Ronda turn to the
left onto the MA-525, and you will arrive at Júzcar
after passing through Cartajima. If you leave from Ronda,
take the aforementioned A-376 and likewise the MA-525, which
passes through Cartajima and Júzcar.
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 34 square kilometres
Population: a little over 200
What the natives are called: Juzcareños
Monuments: the Santa Catalina church and the ruins of the
Fábrica de Hojalata (tin factory)
Geographical Location: in the upper Genal region of the
Ronda highlands. The village sits at more than 620 metres
above sea level and is 22 kilometres from Ronda and 113
from the provincial capital. The area records an average
annual rainfall of more than 1,100 litres per square metre
and the average temperature is about 14º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle José Antonio,
1 (29462). Telephone: 952 183 500; Fax: 952 183 644