The
small municipality of Macharaviaya exhibits a landscape
that is typical of the region to which it belongs but is
without remarkable contrasts in elevation, since the terrain
is composed of a succession of hills of similar altitude.
In the absence of the vineyards that disappeared with the
phylloxera pest, they are covered with pastures occasionally
mixed with olive trees.
This
is an area of pleasant geographic contours, but one that
is not without small ravines and canyons, and is the setting
for the village and its sub-district of Benaque, which is
barely three kilometres away. It is even smaller than Macharaviaya
but shares with it the same peaceful and old-fashioned ambience,
far from modern rush and bother.
Macharaviaya originated as an ancient Arabic farm community
and was founded as a royal burgh in 1572, taking the former
Arabic name of Machar Ibn Yahha (farmstead of the son of
Yahha), which is preserved today with practically the same
pronunciation. The expulsion of the Moors resulted in the
depopulation of the village, and it appears that unlike
so many other villages in the area, there was no fully developed
programme of repopulation.
The
extended period of decadence experienced by Macharaviaya
in all aspects of life, particularly relating to population,
took an unexpected turn when the Gálvez family appeared
in the little community. They provided a surprising economic
stimulus in the eighteenth century. Throughout that century
and part of the next, the village enjoyed unaccustomed prosperity
and was visited by the most influential personalities in
Málaga, who came to Macharaviaya to establish ties
with the Gálvez family.
A new church was built over the former one during this period,
the Real Fábrica de Naipes (Royal Playing Card Factory)
and an Agricultural Bank were created and a potable water
distribution system was begun. This economic development
financed by the Gálvez family was so great that the
village began to also be called the “Little Madrid”. Although
this was without doubt an exaggerated nickname, it attests
to the economic good times of the period.
A
new period of decline began with the arrival of the phylloxera
pest, as in nearly all of La Axarquía, and the village
only began to emerge from it a few decades ago when it became
a refuge for numerous artists who chose it as a residence,
no doubt so they could devote themselves to their creative
work in complete peace and quiet. A stable residential tourism
industry has also been established that has contributed
greatly to restoring many of the old dwellings that had
fallen into disuse and disrepair.
Outstandings Visits:
It is often said that modernity has not crossed the threshold
of Macharaviaya and that it is still as it was in the eighteenth
century. While this assertion is not totally correct-such
a thing would be impossible-it does contain much truth.
The streets are still cobblestone and care has been taken
that the façades of the houses do not display features
that are out of place, therefore the traditional architecture
shows up splendidly and is in perfect harmony with the irregular
street plan.
The first thing that a traveller will notice as he enters
the village is the quadrangular two-story brick monument
which commemorates the debt of the village to its benefactors,
the Gálvez family, as stated on the stone tablet
from 1786. Inside the village the San Jacinto church attracts
attention. It was built in the eighteenth century in the
same place that the first church had been built two centuries
before, in 1505. It has a Latin cross floor plan with a
single nave that measures 36 metres long by 9 metres wide
and has a barrel vault and a graceful dome on the transept.
The sober entrance to the church, done in facing brick and
very much in the style of the era, consists of Corinthian
columns under a divided pediment, over which appears a royal
coat of arms.
Next
to the church is the cemetery, which is the location of
the entrance to the church’s crypt. These premises occupy
practically the entire underground area of the church and
house the tombs of several members of the Gálvez
family, who are represented by marble sculptures in praying
posture.
At the present time the old playing card factory is not
exactly a visually impressive piece of architecture (truth
be told, it never was) but it is an inseparable part of
this village’s history and its economic development. After
his departure for America José Gálvez opened
new commercial avenues in the New World, and thus the Playing
Card Factory of Macharaviaya reaffirmed the monopoly that
the former owner of the factory, Félix Solecio, held
on the sale of playing cards in the “Yndias” by the terms
of a contract signed in 1576. The factory produced 30,000
decks per year, which were manufactured from a paper made
in Benalmádena. (Paper manufacturing requires a huge
quantity of water, which was very abundant in Benalmádena).
Production stopped in 1815 and the building, located at
Calle Real de Málaga 15 to 23, was converted into
dwellings.
In
the sub-district of Benaque, less than three kilometres
from Macharaviaya, the visitor can view the Nuestra Señora
de la Encarnación church. This is a sixteenth century
structure without garish decoration but rather with the
authentic flavour of the simplest Mudéjar style.
It was erected over a former mosque of which the minaret
remains and is used as a bell tower. It has been subjected
to a number of modifications since part of the roof collapsed
in 1930. The house of the poet Salvador Rueda, who originated
the poetic movement known as Modernism, can also be visited.
In it is displayed a notable legacy of the poet.
How
to Get There:
Go towards Motril on the Mediterranean Expressway (A-7;
N-340) and some five kilometres past the exit for Chilches
take the MA-176. This road leads directly to Macharaviaya,
although not in a straight line. .
Interesting Facts:
Surface Area: 7.2 square kilometres
Population: about 370
What the natives are called: Macharatungos
Monuments: the Gálvez monument, San Jacinto church,
Fábrica de Naipes (old playing card factory), and
the Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación church
(Benaque)
Geographical Location: in the La Axarquía region,
25 kilometres from Vélez Málaga and 27 from
the provincial capital. It is 240 metres above sea level,
the average rainfall in the area is 520 litres per square
metre and the average annual temperature is 17.5º C.
Tourist Information: Town Hall, Calle Real, 12 (29791).
Telephone: 952 400 042; Fax: 952 400 026