AT
PRESENT THE VILLAGE OF OJÉN REPRESENTS THE SURVIVAL
OF THAT AUTOCHTHONOUS AMID THE COSMOPOLITANISM OF THE COSTA
DEL SOL. OJÉN IS A STEP AWAY FROM THE BLUE MEDITERRANEAN
AND THE GREEN OF THE SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES, WHICH IT GUARDS
AS JEALOUSLY AS THE VILLAGE SECRET: ITS LIQUOR.
We travel along the road that leads to the village of Ojén
from the old road that links with Marbella. Soon we will
want to stop the car to capture the image. A cubic and white
spot sunk amongst a green thickness where the true flavour
of the villages of Andalusia is still kept. Once inside
its maze of streets of Moorish origin, we can seek the vantage
point that situates us facing the Mediterranean and the
diamond of the Costa del Sol, Marbella .
Behind
us, an extensive greenness which, along with Sierra Blanca,
is the portico of the Sierra de las Nieves, a protected
natural park which was declared Reserve of the Biosphere.
To the east, the Sierra Alpujata claims our attention, with
its jagged slopes.
Ojén in History
This village of the province of Málaga contains not
only a beautiful landscape, but also some unusual facts.
There are references of primitive settlements in this area
from the Middle Palaeolithic and the Neolithic, marks of
which were found in the Cueva de Pecho Redondo. The Costa
del Sol was densely populated in Roman times, thus it is
thought that in this area there were livestock and agricultural
exploitations that provided for Marbella.
But Ojén entered the pages of history for the first
time through the "Chronicle of the Feats of the Cordovan
Emirs". This text tells of the battles of Abderraman
III againts the Málaga Renegades concentrated in
Bobastro and led by Omar Ben Hafsun. These rebels held fierce
battles on different fronts of the province of Mñálaga
during the 10th Century. One of the battles took place by
the walls of the Castle of Hoxán (rough place in
Arabic), then Ojén.
Victory led the caliph to order a mosque built in this area,
at present where the parish church stands.
Once
Christianised, in 1569, another Mozarab rebellion set fire
to the castle, the remains of which can barely be seen above
the village. According to the British chronicler Francis
Carter (1722), Ojén is "a village pleasant,
simple people, who do not know tea or coffee, but who enjoy
goat's milk in their clay cups". What this untiring
traveller did not know was, that a century later, its inhabitants
would begin to enjoy one of the most famous liquors of Spain,
the Aguardiente de Ojén.
Half a glass of Ojén
It could be that to drink Ojén in full would be counterproductive,
because the recomended dose was "half a cup.../ of
Ojén". After setting music to this cadence of
words, many Spaniards knocked on the doors of houses with
this tune, as the Aguardiente de Ojén soon became
a true national phenomenon. So much so, that the Málaga
painter Pablo Ruíz Picasso immortalised it in one
of his most Spanish paintings. The still life comprises
a bottle of that much appreciated liquor on which the word
"Ojén" can be read, three glasses, a section
of the Barcelona newspaper La Publicidad, an inkwell, a
fragment of a letter and a ticket for a bullfight with the
words "sol y sombra" (sun and shade) with the
colours of the Spanish flag. Seemingly, this was a moment
when Picasso wrote to his parents who were in Barcelona
from a café while he had half, one, two or three
glasses of this anis; but this is a detail that is only
supposed.
The
creator of such famous alcoholic potion was the local Pedro
Morales. Around 1830 he founded in his village a small factory
in which only Ojén grapes were used. The liquor,
flavoured with local herbs, was heated with juniper wood
on a still. When Pedro Morales died, his son continued with
the family secret until his death, as he took with him the
formula, not leaving it even to his closest family. Later,
in 1969, Juan Espada tried to reactivate the factory after
analy-sing one of the old bottles. But the result did not
achieve the expected quality or flavour, thus the distillery
closed for good in 1979.
At present, it holds the Museo del Vino Malaga where, in
addition to contemplating the old labels and bottles, the
original still is kept. The history and flavour of the different
wines of the province can also be found here.
Juanar, palace of kings
When visiting the village of Ojén one cannot help
but see some indication that leads us to the Refugio de
Juanar, in the heart of the game preserve.
The palace was built by the Marqués de Larios in
1906 as a shelter for hunters, thus began the fame of a
unique place in the middle of nature.
In 1965 it became a Parador Nacional de Turismo; although
today is exploited by a local cooperative. Among its most
famous guests are the king of Spain Alfonso XIII or the
ex-president of France and general in World War II Charles
de Gaulle, who wrote his memoirs here Its attraction lies
in the natural surroundings, the cooking of game, the outdoor
activities and total tranquillity. The road that leads there
continues up to the Juanar vantage point, presided by a
Hispanic goat, very common in the area, and the Cruz de
Juanar. There is a spectacular view from here over the western
part of the Costa del Sol and the foothills of the Sierra
de las Nieves.